When spring arrives in the Northern Hemisphere, it is the season to explore humid and buggy places in search of insects and other small creatures. I acknowledge that macro photography is unique, but its beauty attracts those who have tried it. Overcome some technical challenges and be aware of insects; you will discover numerous photo opportunities in your backyard. Here are the tips for those starting with macro photography, which will help you get started.

9 Proven Tips for Beginners in Macro Photography - A Simpler Guide

The provided tips and tricks are aimed to assist novice macro photographers in enhancing their abilities. The instructions begin with fundamental concepts and then move on to more complex techniques.

1. Learn Bug Behaviour

To take the best possible photograph of your subject, it is important to understand it well. For instance, do you know the best way to approach a dragonfly without causing it to fly away? Knowing this information could significantly improve your likelihood of capturing the perfect photo.

Macro photography, similar to wildlife photography, requires you to understand the natural behavior of your subject. Some bugs will fly away or be startled by camera flashes, while others may take a few moments to adjust to your presence but will eventually ignore you. Some bugs are completely indifferent to humans.

A helpful tip for learning about bug behavior is to take numerous macro photos. Taking multiple images of a specific insect can enhance your ability to anticipate its actions. This advice can also apply to observing other creatures like lizards and spiders.

Earlier, I asked a question, and now I will answer it:

Based on my experience, approaching a dragonfly gradually works very well. As you get closer, slow your approach and pause every few seconds. Additionally, make sure to avoid sudden movements. I have successfully used these steps without fail. I even accidentally touched a dragonfly with my lens hood once, and it didn't fly away.

2. Start At Sunrise

Photographers often ask when I recommend taking macro photos. I respond consistently at sunrise, best on a warm, humid, windless, and sunny day.

• Watching the sunrise is a good time to catch bugs as they may still be slow from the previous night.

• They are warm and increase the likelihood of finding a lot of bugs outdoors.

• I prefer taking photos when it's humid because the dew droplets look beautiful in pictures, and it usually causes creatures to slow down and sit still to dry off.

• Concentrating on examining tiny details is harder when there is wind because plants tend to move. Days without wind are usually better for observing insects that may be more active.

• Sunny weather because it provides ample light and attracts a greater variety of creatures.

The main factor to consider is sunrise. During this time, the lighting conditions are ideal, insects move slower, and there's a higher chance of seeing water droplets around.

Although sunrise is a great time for macro photography, you can use a flash to achieve similar lighting regardless of the time of day. The key is to find an interesting subject, irrespective of the time.

If you start from the beginning and want the best probability, go with sunrise.

3. Tell A Story

Our photos evoke emotions effectively, and in macro photography, as well as any other genre, storytelling is one of the most effective techniques to achieve this.

I enjoy macro photos that capture a subject in action, such as a bug reaching for a nearby leaf or playing with the lighting and background. These photos tell a story and make viewers feel like they are witnessing something special.

Macro photography can effectively convey a story as it captures subjects that are not commonly seen. This allows for a more straightforward and literal style while evoking a sense of amazement in your photographs. Another way to showcase the intricate details of an ordinary bug like a housefly is by magnifying it through a microscope, which reveals remarkable features in its eyes.

Regrettably, some macro photographers may fail to disclose to their audience that they have staged the photos because they understand the significance of storytelling in photography. To create a playful atmosphere, they capture a fascinating bug, freeze it, and adjust its limbs manually in a studio to assume unnatural postures. Such photos can often be recognized easily since they appear unrealistic, such as a praying mantis on a mushroom with impeccable studio lighting and backdrop.

4. Use A Flash

Capturing enough light is one of the main challenges in macro photography due to three reasons:

First, you're focusing at extreme magnifications, and your depth of field becomes very shallow. Only a small part of the image will be in sharp focus. You need to take a photo of a stationary subject and use a tripod to get enough of your subject in strong focus. One solution is to use a small aperture like f/16 or f/22 (for full frame), which will make your photo dark.

Second, taking close-up photos, magnifying the subject can also magnify motion blur and camera shake. Relying on the old "1/focal length" rule is insufficient for taking clear handheld macro photos. While vibration reduction and standing further from the subject can help, even the best efforts can result in significant blur.

Third, If you get too close to your subject, you will block the natural light and cast a shadow on them. Even on a bright day, you can reduce the light by several stops with the wrong angle. This will make it harder to take a glowing photo and result in poor-quality light. Your subject may appear dark while the surroundings are too bright.

To solve the problem, you can use a flash. It provides sufficient light and freezes any motion in the scene instantly. Though some photographers prefer constant lights, such as ring lights for macro photography, they add only a few light stops to your images. However, flashes, when placed near the subject, can outshine sunlight.

5. Diffuse Your Light Source

While a flash can be useful for macro photography, certain factors must be considered. In some cases, a flash may be optional. For example, when capturing images of butterflies, flowers, and dragonflies at lower magnifications, wider apertures, and normal shutter speeds may be sufficient to work with natural lighting.

Using a flash in macro photography can produce harsh light and bright specular reflections, making your subject look unappealing. For better lighting, it is important to diffuse your flash. You can find more information on macro photography lighting in our full article on the subject.

Using a basic diffuser, you can make the light from your flash softer and cover a wider area. If you are new to macro photography, it is important not to skip the step of diffusing your flash. You can use the $7.50 Vello Mini Softbox or create your own. The goal is to use the flash in the final photo without noticing it. If you have ever captured a great moment and a beautiful subject, but the lighting could have been better and more gentle, you understand how frustrating it can be.

6. Tone Down Your Flash

I suggest toning down your flash; some photographers may assume it's to soften the light. However, this is different. The flash's harshness is more related to how well it is diffused than its brightness. My rationale for suggesting a lower flash power is to enable faster recycling.

If you're using the flash at its highest power, it may take a few seconds to be ready for the next shot. Therefore, you may need help to accept multiple close-up photos quickly. In some situations, your flash may need to be fixed or provide enough light, causing you to miss important moments.

We suggest using the flash at 1/4 to 1/3 power when taking macro photos. This will provide a bright output without increasing the high ISO and allow for faster recycle times. Remember that the 1/4 power setting may differ on flashes, but these tips will help you get close to the proper setting.

7. Set Auto (TTL) Flash Correctly

You can capture better close-up photos using a flash; I suggest manually adjusting the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings using an automatic or TTL flash. Keeping the flash at approximately 1/4 power and slightly increasing or decreasing it based on the reflectivity of your subject will give you the desired results. Please explain how to do this.

Adjust your aperture settings to capture your subject with sufficient depth of field. The appropriate value varies depending on the subject's distance. I suggest setting your aperture to f/16 or f/22 (full frame equivalent) for macro photography. Wider apertures are acceptable for subjects that are farther away. I frequently use f/4 or even f/2.8 for close-up pictures.

To minimize motion blur and reduce the amount of natural light in your image, set your camera's shutter speed to its sync speed, usually around 1/200 or 1/250 second. This is the fastest shutter speed that can be used with a Speedlight. Remember that you are creating an artificially lit image with flash, so adjusting the sync speed will help achieve the desired result.

Let's start with the flash. For now, set the flash power manually to 1/4. We'll eventually make this an automatic setting. Still, the goal is to determine the right combination of other settings to give us good exposure with the flash at around 1/4 power.

To adjust the ISO, gradually increase it from its base value after setting the aperture and shutter speed. Take sample photos of a normal leaf up close and stop when the images are properly bright. Afterward, use the manual values for aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Set the flash to Auto/TTL, which will be around 1/4 power even though it's set to automatic.

8. Focus Manually (Sometimes)

I strongly support autofocus, even in landscape photography, where some photographers suggest manual focus. However, macro photography may require manual focus in some cases.

Autofocus is not quick enough to track movement for extreme close-up shots. It's better to use manual focus instead. Slowly adjust the focus until the subject appears sharp on the viewfinder or LCD screen. Once you achieve this, take the picture right away.

I am still looking for a better option if it's not a flawless technique. If you're taking handheld pictures with a macro lens at full 1:1 magnification and the subject is not moving, using this method can result in 25% to 50% of your photos being perfectly focused, depending on your technique.

To increase the number of photos you keep, avoid using the highest magnification on your lens and take pictures of larger subjects instead. This will make it easier for the autofocus feature to work well.

Perhaps, the main point of this article is that macro photography can be challenging, and to simplify it, it's better to start with larger subjects. Close-up photography is comparatively easier than extreme macro photography. Therefore, beginners in macro photography can have better outcomes and less frustration by beginning with less extreme magnifications.

9. Get Rid Of Dust Spots

To achieve better clarity in your macro photos, it is crucial to edit them properly, which involves eliminating any dust spots. The number and darkness of the areas increase when using a smaller aperture. These spots can distract viewers; hence, getting rid of them is important. It's surprising how often published macro photos, whether online or in print, still have visible dust spots.

Removing dust spots in post-processing software is quite simple. One can use the "envision dust spots" feature in software like Lightroom and Capture One to identify less visible dust particles. Taking a minute to do this can make all the difference in enhancing the quality of your photos and preventing distractions for experienced viewers. So, it's important not to make any excuse to neglect this step.

Wrapping Up......

Macro photography can be a lifelong hobby because of its endless creative possibilities and the fact that excellent subjects are all around us. The best part is anyone with a digital camera already has the necessary equipment to get started.

Remember to bring your camera and a close-focusing accessory before heading outside.

Now over to you:

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Here are some frequently asked user questions about Macro photography and some accompanying tips.

Q. What Settings Should I Use For Macro Photography?

Ans. To capture subjects that are one inch or smaller, selecting a higher aperture setting between f/8 and f/11 is recommended. This will allow for a deeper depth of field. If the subject is larger than one inch, you can use an f-stop lower than f/10 but higher than f/2.8.

Q. Why Is Macro Photography Hard?

Ans. Some photographers need help with achieving precise focus when mastering macro photography. Due to the small focus point, it can be challenging to obtain and maintain the desired focus. However, there are various solutions available to address this issue.

Q. How Do You Shoot Macros With A DSLR?

Ans. If you use a DSLR, you can achieve a greater depth of field by selecting a larger f-number, which means reducing your aperture setting. For macro photography, it is recommended to use an f-stop range of f/8 to f/16. Moreover, increasing your camera's ISO setting will help to increase the shutter speed and produce sharper images.

Q. Which Lens Is Good For Macro Photography?

Ans. If you're looking for a top-notch Canon macro lens, the EF 100mm f/2.8 L Macro is a great choice, especially if you prefer a longer focal length. This lens provides a greater distance between you and your subject when lighting for close-up shots, minimising shadows.

Q. What Is Shutter Speed For Macro Photography?

Ans. It's crucial to use a high shutter speed to capture clear macro shots, as even the slightest movement can be exaggerated in the photo. For magnified macro images taken with a tripod, a shutter speed of about 1/200 is recommended, whereas, without a tripod, it's better to keep the shutter speed above 1/320.